Scarf samples printing

I found another printer called RA Smart (who I discovered when talking to a silk scarf seller in Borough) who sent me a whole batch of samples which are suitable for scarf printing as the design shows through on the reverse of the fabric. Other printers I have found were not able to provide this, even though they used the same method of printing, and said that they could, but their samples showed otherwise.

From the dozen or so fabric samples I received from RA Smart, I chose to try printing on 100% wool, 96gsm. I chose the wool because, unlike the silks I was considering, the weave is slightly uneven, providing some texture and shading to the design. I also prefer the feel, as it does not feel cold against the skin like silk. It will be interesting to compare them with similar prints I have on silk.

RA Smart's costs are much higher than other companies, with a separate price for printing, for the substrate and for file set up.  In one metre of fabric I have managed to get 2 full sized scarves plus 10 samples.

The designs I uploaded are shown below.

Scarf samples

I have received back my sample designs printed on three different fabrics, at different saturation levels. Despite assurances from the printing company (BeFabBeCreative), and the fact that they use reactive dyes, none of the designs showed through totally on the other side of the fabric, and are therefore not suitable for scarves. I'm going to try another company.  I have also learned that some designs are going to need to be enlarged quite a bit to look effective, and some colour combinations don't work successfully when printed onto fabric.

Pattern collection lookbook

After working through online tutorials and e-courses on surface pattern design, I have created a lookbook which features 4 designs in 3 different colourways. I will be ordering samples printed on cotton lawn, cotton habotai and silk habotai.

Surface pattern design

Colour story and colour way

I have been working through a Skillshare surface pattern design course which teaches about designing contrasting pattern tiles, developing a colour story, creating neutrals that blend with your dominant colours, and making fabrics in colour ways. The course explains about Itten's and Alber's theory of colours being perceived differently depending on their surroundings. I think the most successful are the first two colour ways, but I know the actual designs need a lot of work, but I wanted to learn the theory behind it more than produce excellent designs. I will be learning more about pattern design over the summer.

Textile design

I'm working my way through a Skillshare course on surface pattern design, and at the same time making a quilt for my daughter. I couldn't find a fabric with both colours from my palette in a ditsy floral, so I designed one (top) and printed it off on inkjet cotton at home. The bottom fabrics are the purchased ones. The colours on the printed fabric came out very close to the screen colours, with the correct ICC profile selected.

Teal flowers pattern

Another fabric pattern...

Presentation and Annotated Bibliography Brief

Marimekko

I decided to base my presentation for Contextual Studies on the Finnish company Marimekko, who, for the last 60 years have been famous for their printed designs produced for fashion and homewares.

Their most famous print, still in production after 50 years, is Unikko:

This print has been used on everything from clothing,  to dinner plates, to tube train interiors, to airplanes.

I want to research what makes the company and their designs so enduring, in this fast fashion world that we now live in. What it is about the ethics of this company that makes it so successful? How does this fit in with the broader Scandinavian ethos to work and design equality?

I really want to find out more about Marimekko's patterns as I have discovered that I have developed a strong interest in surface pattern design.

Surface pattern design

Fabric samples

I received my 20cm square printed swatches back from wovenmonkey.com today. I'm really pleased with how the pattern translated to actual fabric.  I like the fact that the ink roller texture shows really well on the larger motifs, but is still evident on the medium sized ones too. The best texture is cotton drill, which has a slightly ribbed effect. I think I will stick with a grey and white palette, but go for the largest pattern as the design is for a hanging panel in a window display. I will use the smaller motifs on other items in the window display.